Some travelers will say that travelling is all about the people. Travelers with this thought may think a country can only be revealed so much through it's tourist sites, activities, and even it's cuisine (which in our opinion is highly important); it's about conversing, walking, watching, and being with the people from that place in the world that begins to teach you to understand and truly appreciate their way of life. Naturally, independent travel allows freedom and can be the best way to meet many people from different walks of life that move and shape the country that you are in. Mostly, Jason and I prefer to travel this way. You can change your plans and stay those extra two days or even take that dinner invitation from that nice family. With independent travel you can "blend in" or at least try, which can make one more approachable and disguises that big "tourist" sign that blinks across many a tourists forehead. Being a covert tourist, which in my opinion makes one a respectful traveler, is where stealth people watching skills are perfected, lessons are learned, revelations occur, new things are tried, unlikely adventures surprise, boundaries are broken, relationships are born, connections are made, and most importantly; where stepping outside ones comfort zone is not all that uncomfortable. We need to humanize the places we travel to.
While staying in Invercargill with a lovely family that I had met via a Pilates connection, Jason and I had one of these travel "people" experiences. We were graciously invited to a big family birthday party by the family we were staying with. Off we drove from Invercargill to Gore, about an hours drive, to a family cattle station. We were told to be prepared to walk and get ready for tons of food and activity. Already sounded like our idea of a great afternoon. One of the last to arrive, we were greeted by family on a big wonderful front lawn with playing kids, men in circles conversing, women dashing in and out of the house preparing the meal, and young men showing off their latest gadgets for their fast cars and motorbikes. Walking shoes were on, walking sticks were in hand, and bottles of water at the ready for our "walk". Thinking to ourselves, "this should be interesting", we had never been to a family get together that began with a hike which included all family generations, shapes, sizes, and dynamic. Heading to the "wee hill" in the distance we began our walk up, very up, with children in the lead and adults trailing behind in a diverse blend of conversation. As we walked and walked up and up we talked and talked with the family. We answered questions and asked questions; tripping, learning, and laughing all the way up the hill. At the top, the kids were waiting and exploring the ridge after their swift ascent. We were welcomed by crisp views of the valley below us and a nudging breeze that made the bushes and trees dance. We all stood; maybe with one foot up on a rock or coats wrapped tighter against the chill, but definitely all with the satisfaction of the climb, the company, and the conversation. The uncle fascinated with geography wanted to know the details of American geography, all were struck with awe to learn of Jason's boat captain career, the use of the hamstring muscles while climbing was thoroughly discussed, opinions on the current events in South Africa were voiced, and a common interest in hunting was revealed. An explanation of lives, travels, interests,and plans were superficially mentioned in these brief initial conversations, enough to open a small window and take a glance into who these people may be and enough for them to see who we may be.
Sunday, December 23, 2007
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
The Stewarts on Stewart Island
Waking up, I quietly slip out from under the covers and go into the bathroom to get ready for the day. As I undo the braid in my hair that I slept in, I notice with sleepy eyes a black and round thick spot crawling up the blond strands. It's a spider, with long delicate and creepy crawly legs and who knows for how many hours it made a temporary resting place in my hair. I'm sure, shocking it more than myself, it gets rude jolt as I squeal and it is tossed to the floor while I jumping around on my tip toes. Jason runs in, hair a mess, and laughs at my shocked look as I cling to him as if my life was in jeopardy. I don't mind spiders as long as they are not in my hair when I wake up on a bright sunny morning.
This is how we begin the day that is our sixth month of marriage. Too late for cuddles and kisses now; just spiders in my hair, Jason laughing, and myself thinking "where's the coffee?" Again, thank goodness that New Zealand is void of all creatures that can harm waking women.
We're in Stewart Island in a bizarre rental house in Evening Cove. The curtains may be dusty, the carpet old, and the couches a bit uncertain to sit on; but the view is great and we here to walk around and explore. Stewart Island is officially the furthest south in the world that either of us may ever go. Next stop Antarctica; maybe another day.
The water is green, a vibrant green that competes with the moss covered trees. We find a swing hanging from a tree over rocks and the water. We wait until the tide rolls out and we swing, free like kids again, just as one should be on holiday. The island is enchanted with birds. Everywhere in the bush they are singing for you, as if welcoming you into their home, they entertain with songs that both amuse us and reveal beauty to us. We spend two days walking as much as we like, realizing that this virtually untouched island is an oasis of color, sound, breath, and light for those who take the journey to explore it.
Stewart Island provided our favorite hike so far in New Zealand. The trail took us up and down hills, through mud, over roots and rocks, revealing beautiful vistas at it's peaks and stunning beaches at it's edges. We maneuvered around mud patches by swinging on trees and strolled across beaches finding a perfect spot for lunch.
The journey to Stewart Island is short across the Foveaux Strait, but notoriously rough and most often draws the seasickness out of it's travelers. As for my boat captain of a husband, he sat there with ease as I lay across his lap eyes shut tight, imagining lying in warm sand on a beach, but hearing little white vomit bags being opened, used, and abused by those around us. I successfully made it and was happy to see the "Welcome to Stewart Island" sign that greeted pale faced ferry passengers as we climbed off and on to this tiny and cold paradise.
All the best everybody!
Lots of love,
Leah and Jason
This is how we begin the day that is our sixth month of marriage. Too late for cuddles and kisses now; just spiders in my hair, Jason laughing, and myself thinking "where's the coffee?" Again, thank goodness that New Zealand is void of all creatures that can harm waking women.
We're in Stewart Island in a bizarre rental house in Evening Cove. The curtains may be dusty, the carpet old, and the couches a bit uncertain to sit on; but the view is great and we here to walk around and explore. Stewart Island is officially the furthest south in the world that either of us may ever go. Next stop Antarctica; maybe another day.
The water is green, a vibrant green that competes with the moss covered trees. We find a swing hanging from a tree over rocks and the water. We wait until the tide rolls out and we swing, free like kids again, just as one should be on holiday. The island is enchanted with birds. Everywhere in the bush they are singing for you, as if welcoming you into their home, they entertain with songs that both amuse us and reveal beauty to us. We spend two days walking as much as we like, realizing that this virtually untouched island is an oasis of color, sound, breath, and light for those who take the journey to explore it.
Stewart Island provided our favorite hike so far in New Zealand. The trail took us up and down hills, through mud, over roots and rocks, revealing beautiful vistas at it's peaks and stunning beaches at it's edges. We maneuvered around mud patches by swinging on trees and strolled across beaches finding a perfect spot for lunch.
The journey to Stewart Island is short across the Foveaux Strait, but notoriously rough and most often draws the seasickness out of it's travelers. As for my boat captain of a husband, he sat there with ease as I lay across his lap eyes shut tight, imagining lying in warm sand on a beach, but hearing little white vomit bags being opened, used, and abused by those around us. I successfully made it and was happy to see the "Welcome to Stewart Island" sign that greeted pale faced ferry passengers as we climbed off and on to this tiny and cold paradise.
All the best everybody!
Lots of love,
Leah and Jason
Sunday, November 25, 2007
On and Around
Quickly, imagine....
Today we began by walking around a lake at sunrise to see the reflection of Mt Cook and Mt Tasman in a mirror of glass water and enchanting mist. We took a helicopter ride up to Fox Glacier and hiked around for three hours. In and out of ice caves and walking over endless white and blue ice. Drinking glacier water and delicately stepping over crevasses in our spiked boots. We ended eating our lunch on a stony and gray beach washed with scattered bleached tree trunks, while the angry sea warned us not to enter. We walked into a peaceful lagoon and sat on a bridge remembering our climb on the glacier. We jogged back in awe of our view with dramatic beach on one side, and glacier on the other; descending from up high down into rain forest, and bright green paddocks with cows and sheep linking the two.
This is the west coast of New Zealand's south island, safely, one can say their is nothing like it. Stunning to all the senses.
Love,
Leah and Jason
Today we began by walking around a lake at sunrise to see the reflection of Mt Cook and Mt Tasman in a mirror of glass water and enchanting mist. We took a helicopter ride up to Fox Glacier and hiked around for three hours. In and out of ice caves and walking over endless white and blue ice. Drinking glacier water and delicately stepping over crevasses in our spiked boots. We ended eating our lunch on a stony and gray beach washed with scattered bleached tree trunks, while the angry sea warned us not to enter. We walked into a peaceful lagoon and sat on a bridge remembering our climb on the glacier. We jogged back in awe of our view with dramatic beach on one side, and glacier on the other; descending from up high down into rain forest, and bright green paddocks with cows and sheep linking the two.
This is the west coast of New Zealand's south island, safely, one can say their is nothing like it. Stunning to all the senses.
Love,
Leah and Jason
Kiwi Thanksgiving
Hi All,
I overlooked mentioning our amazing Kiwi Thanksgiving in New Zealand. We were at our Horse Trek in our little hut with Cheryl, our guide. Like I said, she prepared a couple of beautiful meals for us on the wood burning stove and Thankgiving dinner was one of them. She prepared the meal and we came with the pumpkin for desert, of course, it wouldn't be Thanksgiving without it. She prepared a wonderful fish dish baked in coconut milk(very common in New Zealand), fresh zucchini with garlic from her garden, baked kumara (a New Zealand sweet potato that was very inportant to the Maori), a fresh salad, and of course a wonderful New Zealand Pinot Noir. We sat down at our wood table by candle light, as the hut had no electricity, and taught Cheryl the meaning of Thanksgiving, the history, and why Americans celebrate the day to be with family and friends. The three of us took turns giving thanks for our lives in the past year, acknowleging our blessings and lessons learned. Cheryl said something beautiful, "I am thankful for my beautiful home that I get to share with others from all over the world. I get to experience the world by standing still". We were honored to teach her the beauty of the Thanksgiving holiday. She mentioned that she really liked the idea, the meaning, and how neat it was the Americans set aside a day to honor thanks.
Let us discuss the pumpkin desert. We brought a long a pumpkin cupcake mix that Jason's mom had given us. We prepared the dough in our little hut using fresh cream and fresh eggs from the chickens. Then we popped it in the wood stove and out they came crispy on top and soft in the middle, super yummy. A great first Thanksgiving for these Newlweds.
We hope that you all had a happy, yummy, and fun Thanksgiving. We missed our families and spent some time discussing the things and experiences that we were missing. We thought of you all.
Take care,
Leah and Jason
I overlooked mentioning our amazing Kiwi Thanksgiving in New Zealand. We were at our Horse Trek in our little hut with Cheryl, our guide. Like I said, she prepared a couple of beautiful meals for us on the wood burning stove and Thankgiving dinner was one of them. She prepared the meal and we came with the pumpkin for desert, of course, it wouldn't be Thanksgiving without it. She prepared a wonderful fish dish baked in coconut milk(very common in New Zealand), fresh zucchini with garlic from her garden, baked kumara (a New Zealand sweet potato that was very inportant to the Maori), a fresh salad, and of course a wonderful New Zealand Pinot Noir. We sat down at our wood table by candle light, as the hut had no electricity, and taught Cheryl the meaning of Thanksgiving, the history, and why Americans celebrate the day to be with family and friends. The three of us took turns giving thanks for our lives in the past year, acknowleging our blessings and lessons learned. Cheryl said something beautiful, "I am thankful for my beautiful home that I get to share with others from all over the world. I get to experience the world by standing still". We were honored to teach her the beauty of the Thanksgiving holiday. She mentioned that she really liked the idea, the meaning, and how neat it was the Americans set aside a day to honor thanks.
Let us discuss the pumpkin desert. We brought a long a pumpkin cupcake mix that Jason's mom had given us. We prepared the dough in our little hut using fresh cream and fresh eggs from the chickens. Then we popped it in the wood stove and out they came crispy on top and soft in the middle, super yummy. A great first Thanksgiving for these Newlweds.
We hope that you all had a happy, yummy, and fun Thanksgiving. We missed our families and spent some time discussing the things and experiences that we were missing. We thought of you all.
Take care,
Leah and Jason
Saturday, November 24, 2007
"God's Own"
Good Morning!!!
I was told recently that older New Zealander's call their country "God's Own", and it fits. It is as if God left a tiny beautifully wrapped parcel of the world in the corner, to be unwrapped and revealed slowly. A little gift for humans to enjoy respectively. Just think of the majesty of the landscape in the United States and fit in to a much smaller space, where mountains and oceans have a close relationship, always tugging, pulling, growing, shifting, moving; over, under, in, and out.
After we arrived off the ferry from the North Island we landed in a little town called, Picton. After bank, Internet, laundry, and lunch we were off to find the home stay we booked at the last minute on the ferry. We took the scenic and ever so curving road called "Queen Charlotte's Road". We weaved across, over, and down through the bush where pieces of the Marlborough Sound would reveal it's gorgeous bright blue bays and it's coastline speckled with crisp white sail boats and yacht's. It was Caribbean like in it's color and calm flat texture. Jason proved to be a skilled driver as the narrow roads threatened scraping the sides of mountains with every curve. Our little blue car survived and we dropped into the valley and continued up the coastline toward Nelson.
We took a turn on to a country road and headed in toward Heather and David's place, our home stay for the next two nights. Arriving late we took a look around the amazing home, garden, pond, and environment that Heather and David had built from the ground up. It was a true home, based around a warm kitchen with open doors out to the garden. Off the side of the house were two suites for guests, each with it's own entrance, bathroom, and wee kitchenette. We woke to an amazing breakfast with organic products from their land and garden. We were joined by a German couple and shared our travel experiences and perceptions of the world. Good conversation, good food, sunny morning, and a cute puppy to pet was the best base for our long day.
We walked 15 km through the Abel Tasmen National Park and ran the last 3 km through the trail; dodging tree roots, streams, rocks, bridges, and people. We took a boat up to Torrent Bay and started our journey back through an estuary, a pool with a natural slide; that Jason went down, deep thick rain forest, at the edge of cliffs down to the ocean, and on a bridge over marsh land. Ending with a beer at a small cafe looking over the park we were invigorated and ready for a good dinner.
Heather and David made an amazing organic dinner for us of their own grass fed beef, fresh greens, homemade breads, and blueberry sorbet. Amazing. They told us their story; Dave is American and Heather is Australian. They were open about their lives, experiences, children, and thoughts. We shared our stories as well. We left the table late at night grateful to have met them, and peek into their lives in their beautiful home and land, which contains so much of themselves we were in awe and truly inspired by their passion.
It was a pure coincidence that we happened to book Heather and Dave's as they were just down the road and good friends with Cheryl, the woman I mentioned yesterday that runs the Horse Trekking. So, off we were for three days of horse riding and we didn't know what else. We headed even further into the Baton Valley and ended off a gravel road at the Western Ranges Horse Trek. We walked across paddocks and a swing bridge up to the stables where Cheryl was waiting with Misty (Jason's horse) and Nandor (my horse). We saddled up, got on, properly held our reins (thanks Marie and Scooter!), and with our Irish guide, Carol, and her Scottish assistant, Alex, we were off.
Instead of writing about each day and each new trail, I'll summarize. Imagine Lord of the Rings views and landscapes, river crossings, walking then trotting and then cantering up hills, across fields, through thick bush, and along streams. We came across sheep, cows, pigs, wild goats, robins, ducks, a gorgeous stallion, llamas, and the cutest sweetest baby horse. Cheryl is able to use her neighbors land as well as the national park so she has many options of different rides, animals to see, and scenery to enjoy. Each day we sat by the river and had our tasty homemade lunch getting to know our guides and horses. The days ended with taking the horses for a swim in the river while riding bare back. I mean a swim. We would walk them into a big deep swim hole and down they would go up to their necks and swim along. We were summered into our waists and it was a blast. The horses would grunt and groan, as they loved it too.
The last day was the most fun as we did a lot of cantering (in between a trot and gallop). Up hills, around corners, and across high and windy terraces. It was invigorating and so free. We felt spoiled. Nandor was quite strong and Misty who always hung back to snack on grass and enjoy the scenery was a perfect fit for Jason.
We stayed in a little hut build by Cheryl and her family, which was at the end of a paddock looking across at sheep grazing, and then to where the horse's grazed, and up along the mountains until they ended above tree line and were covered in snow. It was stunning. We had a wood burning stove that would heat the water for the outside shower. A huge hand made wood table, a outside fire pit, a horse hitching post, a bush bath, and a very clean outhouse that had a great view of the stream below. Cheryl came down every night and she made us dinner. Great dinner's. After Jason would build a fire under the bush bath and in we would go. The bush bath is literally a bathtub in the trees with a space for a wood fire under it. Letting the fire go down to burning coals we would sit on a plank of wood as not to burn ourselves and soak under the moonlight, completely alone we could sing. Jason, he was in his element. The boyscout and West Virginia kid came flying out. My sweet husband chopping wood and drinking a beer after a long day of horse riding, standing naked on the porch in the moonlight, making fire, cooking bacon, and going to the bathroom in the bush; one with nature...he was glowing.
Cheryl had some amazing stories about her life and adventures. A strong, beautiful, loving, and talented woman. We had the best time everything was so well done and loved for. It was an honor. Thank you so much Dad for this beautiful gift. We will never forget it.
That's it for now. We're off to the Glaciers today and then we keep heading south. We'll keep you updated when we can. We haven't put pictures up because it takes too much time on this site. Sorry!!!
Take care and we love you lots.
Thanks for the comments back too. We like to read them.
Leah and Jason.
I was told recently that older New Zealander's call their country "God's Own", and it fits. It is as if God left a tiny beautifully wrapped parcel of the world in the corner, to be unwrapped and revealed slowly. A little gift for humans to enjoy respectively. Just think of the majesty of the landscape in the United States and fit in to a much smaller space, where mountains and oceans have a close relationship, always tugging, pulling, growing, shifting, moving; over, under, in, and out.
After we arrived off the ferry from the North Island we landed in a little town called, Picton. After bank, Internet, laundry, and lunch we were off to find the home stay we booked at the last minute on the ferry. We took the scenic and ever so curving road called "Queen Charlotte's Road". We weaved across, over, and down through the bush where pieces of the Marlborough Sound would reveal it's gorgeous bright blue bays and it's coastline speckled with crisp white sail boats and yacht's. It was Caribbean like in it's color and calm flat texture. Jason proved to be a skilled driver as the narrow roads threatened scraping the sides of mountains with every curve. Our little blue car survived and we dropped into the valley and continued up the coastline toward Nelson.
We took a turn on to a country road and headed in toward Heather and David's place, our home stay for the next two nights. Arriving late we took a look around the amazing home, garden, pond, and environment that Heather and David had built from the ground up. It was a true home, based around a warm kitchen with open doors out to the garden. Off the side of the house were two suites for guests, each with it's own entrance, bathroom, and wee kitchenette. We woke to an amazing breakfast with organic products from their land and garden. We were joined by a German couple and shared our travel experiences and perceptions of the world. Good conversation, good food, sunny morning, and a cute puppy to pet was the best base for our long day.
We walked 15 km through the Abel Tasmen National Park and ran the last 3 km through the trail; dodging tree roots, streams, rocks, bridges, and people. We took a boat up to Torrent Bay and started our journey back through an estuary, a pool with a natural slide; that Jason went down, deep thick rain forest, at the edge of cliffs down to the ocean, and on a bridge over marsh land. Ending with a beer at a small cafe looking over the park we were invigorated and ready for a good dinner.
Heather and David made an amazing organic dinner for us of their own grass fed beef, fresh greens, homemade breads, and blueberry sorbet. Amazing. They told us their story; Dave is American and Heather is Australian. They were open about their lives, experiences, children, and thoughts. We shared our stories as well. We left the table late at night grateful to have met them, and peek into their lives in their beautiful home and land, which contains so much of themselves we were in awe and truly inspired by their passion.
It was a pure coincidence that we happened to book Heather and Dave's as they were just down the road and good friends with Cheryl, the woman I mentioned yesterday that runs the Horse Trekking. So, off we were for three days of horse riding and we didn't know what else. We headed even further into the Baton Valley and ended off a gravel road at the Western Ranges Horse Trek. We walked across paddocks and a swing bridge up to the stables where Cheryl was waiting with Misty (Jason's horse) and Nandor (my horse). We saddled up, got on, properly held our reins (thanks Marie and Scooter!), and with our Irish guide, Carol, and her Scottish assistant, Alex, we were off.
Instead of writing about each day and each new trail, I'll summarize. Imagine Lord of the Rings views and landscapes, river crossings, walking then trotting and then cantering up hills, across fields, through thick bush, and along streams. We came across sheep, cows, pigs, wild goats, robins, ducks, a gorgeous stallion, llamas, and the cutest sweetest baby horse. Cheryl is able to use her neighbors land as well as the national park so she has many options of different rides, animals to see, and scenery to enjoy. Each day we sat by the river and had our tasty homemade lunch getting to know our guides and horses. The days ended with taking the horses for a swim in the river while riding bare back. I mean a swim. We would walk them into a big deep swim hole and down they would go up to their necks and swim along. We were summered into our waists and it was a blast. The horses would grunt and groan, as they loved it too.
The last day was the most fun as we did a lot of cantering (in between a trot and gallop). Up hills, around corners, and across high and windy terraces. It was invigorating and so free. We felt spoiled. Nandor was quite strong and Misty who always hung back to snack on grass and enjoy the scenery was a perfect fit for Jason.
We stayed in a little hut build by Cheryl and her family, which was at the end of a paddock looking across at sheep grazing, and then to where the horse's grazed, and up along the mountains until they ended above tree line and were covered in snow. It was stunning. We had a wood burning stove that would heat the water for the outside shower. A huge hand made wood table, a outside fire pit, a horse hitching post, a bush bath, and a very clean outhouse that had a great view of the stream below. Cheryl came down every night and she made us dinner. Great dinner's. After Jason would build a fire under the bush bath and in we would go. The bush bath is literally a bathtub in the trees with a space for a wood fire under it. Letting the fire go down to burning coals we would sit on a plank of wood as not to burn ourselves and soak under the moonlight, completely alone we could sing. Jason, he was in his element. The boyscout and West Virginia kid came flying out. My sweet husband chopping wood and drinking a beer after a long day of horse riding, standing naked on the porch in the moonlight, making fire, cooking bacon, and going to the bathroom in the bush; one with nature...he was glowing.
Cheryl had some amazing stories about her life and adventures. A strong, beautiful, loving, and talented woman. We had the best time everything was so well done and loved for. It was an honor. Thank you so much Dad for this beautiful gift. We will never forget it.
That's it for now. We're off to the Glaciers today and then we keep heading south. We'll keep you updated when we can. We haven't put pictures up because it takes too much time on this site. Sorry!!!
Take care and we love you lots.
Thanks for the comments back too. We like to read them.
Leah and Jason.
Friday, November 23, 2007
Wellington and More
Hello, Let's create the scene....
The smell of sulfur, a Japanese garden, infamous New Zealand Sand Flies, snow peaked mountain caps outside our window, five in the evening, a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, and the white curtain moving with every cue from the breeze. We are in a tiny spot on the South Island map called, Maruia Springs. It's our detour for a couple of days to relax and soak our sore bottoms in the mineral baths after 3 days of horse trekking and a day of walking 15 kilometers. We're off the beaten path, with few tourists like ourselves, many a Kiwi getting away for the weekend, in the middle of nowhere, yet we have wireless access (hallelujah!!) We were redirected to this hot spring area, away from the other commercial hot spring area, by the amazing woman, Cheryl, who own the horse trekking adventure resort, that we just left yesterday. Maruia Springs Resort is own by a Japanese couple. They have done a lot of work to bring this resort up in value, honor the traditional Japanese style bathhouse culture and natural mineral pools, and to keep this place naturally sound and commercial free. It's gorgeous. There is this great building with traditional female and male Japanese bathing houses and since I can't go in with Jason I am missing my Japanese friends (Yae, you would love this) There is a fabulous Japanese restaurant here and tonight we are going to have the Japanese dinner it's called "Yose-Nabe", like a Japanese fondue (Yae, not the same as Shabu-Shabu?) Good stuff.
The morning started with this great hike through a forest and landscape like we had never seen before. The mist and clouds were hanging low creating this soft and delicate mood over the trees, streams, and rivers. Moisture and rain must be common for this area because the ground was covered in a spongy lime green moss and the trees were thin with dark bark and had this amazing green web like moss hanging from every branch. It was quite magical and surreal in appearance. We didn't encounter one person as we casually walked through this new environment, discussing our plans for the next couple of weeks and laughing about the last few days on the South Island. Our turn around point was this great swing bridge over a mighty river that was called "Cannibal Gorge", yes, because this was the scene of one Maori tribe (the native New Zealand people) having a victorious feed on the bodies of another Maori tribe. It is amazing to think that this area remains virtually the same since that time. Nothing but natural changes, humans have not managed to ruin it thanks to the obsession by Kiwi's to protect their land.
Since I am finding myself desperately itching my toe right now, let me describe to you the joy that all Kiwi's know as, Sand Flies. These are tiny little flies that are everywhere in the New Zealand bush (wilderness). They are blood sucking insects, like mosquitoes, yet you can feel them bit you and then they leave an itchy red spot to remind you of their being there. New Zealand has no predators, venomous snakes or spiders, so I suppose as we are all grateful for that and we can deal with Sand Flies; New Zealand's worst enemy. No bears, or lions, or wolves; just Sand Flies.
I have to send my apologizes for not writing sooner. Wellington kept us busy and since being in the South Island we have been deep in the middle of living off the land, middle of nowhere, but yet in the middle of everything in life, even without cell phone service. I'll write two blogs here and the first I'll dedicate to Wellington highlights.
The first few days in Wellington we devoted to city life; museums, shops, cafes, endless walking and people watching. It was wonderful to see this city, which was a bit San Francisco and New York on a much smaller scale. We found ourselves constantly gravitating toward Cuba St, which had all the best, fun, and hip restaurants and shops. The national Te Papa Museum was amazing in this full detailed account of the creation of the islands of New Zealand, the Maori people, the European settlers, the land, the wildlife and plant life, as well as New Zealand art and New Zealand's future and place in the world.
Wellington is an old town, with great old houses (some improved and some not), a small but beautiful harbor, and hilly, very very hilly. All over houses dot the hillsides with texture and color and the wind constantly speaks of New Zealand's place in the Sea somewhere between Antartica and Australia, but remotely on it's own. This sense of survival and independence is built into the people, the buildings, the houses, and the landscape. Young, unafraid, resilient, proud, and free. We discuss how these houses on these hills survive the amazing winds looking grey and damp and come out brilliant and shining on Wellington's gorgeous sunny and still days. What adaptation? What strength? What does it say about the people to build their capital city of this small country on the sides of hills at the tip of one island, at the brink of a fault line, and at the edge of the water that connects the north to the south?
Our last days in Wellington we decided to see what the surrounding area had to offer us. We explored the small towns of the Martinborough, wine region on the east, the beaches on the west, and black stony beaches just outside of Wellington.
After climbing a mountain pass (barely climbing over in our hired car), we descended upon a valley dotted with tiny towns, B&B's, sheep pastures, and wineries. We stopped casually for lunch on a small town main street with small town offerings and tasting rooms of local wineries. We found a silver shop and bought Jason his temporary new wedding ring and drove through paddocks envious of the sheep's view of great foothills and mountains as they madly grazed on endless green grass. Jason started this game of honking the horn at the sheep, just to watch them run away in panic and fear. I have to admit it was funny to watch them run (Randy, that was for you). We ended the day in a town called Greytown, where we stopped in a boutique wine shop for a glass of wine, ewe's cheese, pear's, and conversation with the young owner's. They gave us some tips for the big wine festival in the area that we would be going to on Sunday.
Instead of a high mountain peak to do our little ring ceremony, we choose these beautiful tide pools after a long walk down remote black sand and stony beaches outside of Wellington in an area called, Island Bay. We walked down this amazing beach, alone, and in awe of the power and moods of nature. This same area when we first arrived in Wellington, with the powerful winds, must have been an angry place; was now was sunny, joyful, and fun as the waves tossed over rocks and the tide casually crept up the beach. We climbed into the tide pools and watched the water pull through the rocks and shallow pools; ever changing, out and in, always bringing in the new. Shifting minute by minute every day. Quite. Then a loud wave would come crashing over rocks. Shocking. Then absorbing in the pools naturally. This resembles and represents relationships and life, perhaps, maybe it's cheesy, who cares; sometimes we learn best from simple observation in a time of quite and reflection. Jason and I stood there in our little haven of analogies and exchanged rings again, out of a abalone shell we found on the sand, rededicating vows; making the most of our ring mishap. In contrast to our wedding we were without watching eyes, flowers, and music. Alone. Knowing that we had many people around the world that would love to be standing where we were. Many people that support and love us for standing where we were and where we are. Perfection.
The west coast outside of Wellington gave us a great picnic on the beach with local organic cheeses, hummus, bread, and fruit we bought from a farmer's market. We feel asleep in the sun and I woke up to Jason nudging me to watch a Standard Schnauzer frolic down the beach. We couldn't resist but to go say hi. Image, Diesel in all his glory only six times as big. Following a great drive through some farm and mountain country we had the most amazing Fish and Chips ever in a small town on the beach. That night we headed back into Wellington for a Beatles tribute concert and a great dinner on Cuba St.
Sunday, the day for the big "Toast Martinborough" festival had come. We bought these tickets forever ago. After a major mission to get a train ticket out to wine country, we were on our way with thousands of other eager people, waiting to eat, drink, dance, and hopefully not pass out in between grape vines. Let's see, here are the words to describe the day....shuttles, hot, port-a-loo's, expensive, dusty roads, lots of wine, good wine, white wine, red wine, tasty food, pairing food, eighties band, jazz band, Irish bands (yep, just for you Ryan), rock bands, girl bands, frozen grapes, shaded places, sitting on grass, eating under grape vines, 3 pm, dancing (what would John Kim do?), falling down, people passing out, drunk Kiwi's, train stations, bus stations, taxi drivers, bagpipe players, green wrist bands, yellow wrists bands, white wrist bands, drinking wine out of bottles on the train, hats on train tracks, finish with pizza and a beer, dead asleep.
Monday morning after saying good bye to our wonderful host, Willy, we're off eager for new sites and adventures waiting for us just a beautiful ferry ride away, across the Cook Straight on the South Island. They say that the South Island is far more beautiful with half the population and much more sheep. All we know is there are horses, kayaks, trails, glaciers, more wine, good people, and roads waiting.
Lots of love,
Leah and Jason
The smell of sulfur, a Japanese garden, infamous New Zealand Sand Flies, snow peaked mountain caps outside our window, five in the evening, a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, and the white curtain moving with every cue from the breeze. We are in a tiny spot on the South Island map called, Maruia Springs. It's our detour for a couple of days to relax and soak our sore bottoms in the mineral baths after 3 days of horse trekking and a day of walking 15 kilometers. We're off the beaten path, with few tourists like ourselves, many a Kiwi getting away for the weekend, in the middle of nowhere, yet we have wireless access (hallelujah!!) We were redirected to this hot spring area, away from the other commercial hot spring area, by the amazing woman, Cheryl, who own the horse trekking adventure resort, that we just left yesterday. Maruia Springs Resort is own by a Japanese couple. They have done a lot of work to bring this resort up in value, honor the traditional Japanese style bathhouse culture and natural mineral pools, and to keep this place naturally sound and commercial free. It's gorgeous. There is this great building with traditional female and male Japanese bathing houses and since I can't go in with Jason I am missing my Japanese friends (Yae, you would love this) There is a fabulous Japanese restaurant here and tonight we are going to have the Japanese dinner it's called "Yose-Nabe", like a Japanese fondue (Yae, not the same as Shabu-Shabu?) Good stuff.
The morning started with this great hike through a forest and landscape like we had never seen before. The mist and clouds were hanging low creating this soft and delicate mood over the trees, streams, and rivers. Moisture and rain must be common for this area because the ground was covered in a spongy lime green moss and the trees were thin with dark bark and had this amazing green web like moss hanging from every branch. It was quite magical and surreal in appearance. We didn't encounter one person as we casually walked through this new environment, discussing our plans for the next couple of weeks and laughing about the last few days on the South Island. Our turn around point was this great swing bridge over a mighty river that was called "Cannibal Gorge", yes, because this was the scene of one Maori tribe (the native New Zealand people) having a victorious feed on the bodies of another Maori tribe. It is amazing to think that this area remains virtually the same since that time. Nothing but natural changes, humans have not managed to ruin it thanks to the obsession by Kiwi's to protect their land.
Since I am finding myself desperately itching my toe right now, let me describe to you the joy that all Kiwi's know as, Sand Flies. These are tiny little flies that are everywhere in the New Zealand bush (wilderness). They are blood sucking insects, like mosquitoes, yet you can feel them bit you and then they leave an itchy red spot to remind you of their being there. New Zealand has no predators, venomous snakes or spiders, so I suppose as we are all grateful for that and we can deal with Sand Flies; New Zealand's worst enemy. No bears, or lions, or wolves; just Sand Flies.
I have to send my apologizes for not writing sooner. Wellington kept us busy and since being in the South Island we have been deep in the middle of living off the land, middle of nowhere, but yet in the middle of everything in life, even without cell phone service. I'll write two blogs here and the first I'll dedicate to Wellington highlights.
The first few days in Wellington we devoted to city life; museums, shops, cafes, endless walking and people watching. It was wonderful to see this city, which was a bit San Francisco and New York on a much smaller scale. We found ourselves constantly gravitating toward Cuba St, which had all the best, fun, and hip restaurants and shops. The national Te Papa Museum was amazing in this full detailed account of the creation of the islands of New Zealand, the Maori people, the European settlers, the land, the wildlife and plant life, as well as New Zealand art and New Zealand's future and place in the world.
Wellington is an old town, with great old houses (some improved and some not), a small but beautiful harbor, and hilly, very very hilly. All over houses dot the hillsides with texture and color and the wind constantly speaks of New Zealand's place in the Sea somewhere between Antartica and Australia, but remotely on it's own. This sense of survival and independence is built into the people, the buildings, the houses, and the landscape. Young, unafraid, resilient, proud, and free. We discuss how these houses on these hills survive the amazing winds looking grey and damp and come out brilliant and shining on Wellington's gorgeous sunny and still days. What adaptation? What strength? What does it say about the people to build their capital city of this small country on the sides of hills at the tip of one island, at the brink of a fault line, and at the edge of the water that connects the north to the south?
Our last days in Wellington we decided to see what the surrounding area had to offer us. We explored the small towns of the Martinborough, wine region on the east, the beaches on the west, and black stony beaches just outside of Wellington.
After climbing a mountain pass (barely climbing over in our hired car), we descended upon a valley dotted with tiny towns, B&B's, sheep pastures, and wineries. We stopped casually for lunch on a small town main street with small town offerings and tasting rooms of local wineries. We found a silver shop and bought Jason his temporary new wedding ring and drove through paddocks envious of the sheep's view of great foothills and mountains as they madly grazed on endless green grass. Jason started this game of honking the horn at the sheep, just to watch them run away in panic and fear. I have to admit it was funny to watch them run (Randy, that was for you). We ended the day in a town called Greytown, where we stopped in a boutique wine shop for a glass of wine, ewe's cheese, pear's, and conversation with the young owner's. They gave us some tips for the big wine festival in the area that we would be going to on Sunday.
Instead of a high mountain peak to do our little ring ceremony, we choose these beautiful tide pools after a long walk down remote black sand and stony beaches outside of Wellington in an area called, Island Bay. We walked down this amazing beach, alone, and in awe of the power and moods of nature. This same area when we first arrived in Wellington, with the powerful winds, must have been an angry place; was now was sunny, joyful, and fun as the waves tossed over rocks and the tide casually crept up the beach. We climbed into the tide pools and watched the water pull through the rocks and shallow pools; ever changing, out and in, always bringing in the new. Shifting minute by minute every day. Quite. Then a loud wave would come crashing over rocks. Shocking. Then absorbing in the pools naturally. This resembles and represents relationships and life, perhaps, maybe it's cheesy, who cares; sometimes we learn best from simple observation in a time of quite and reflection. Jason and I stood there in our little haven of analogies and exchanged rings again, out of a abalone shell we found on the sand, rededicating vows; making the most of our ring mishap. In contrast to our wedding we were without watching eyes, flowers, and music. Alone. Knowing that we had many people around the world that would love to be standing where we were. Many people that support and love us for standing where we were and where we are. Perfection.
The west coast outside of Wellington gave us a great picnic on the beach with local organic cheeses, hummus, bread, and fruit we bought from a farmer's market. We feel asleep in the sun and I woke up to Jason nudging me to watch a Standard Schnauzer frolic down the beach. We couldn't resist but to go say hi. Image, Diesel in all his glory only six times as big. Following a great drive through some farm and mountain country we had the most amazing Fish and Chips ever in a small town on the beach. That night we headed back into Wellington for a Beatles tribute concert and a great dinner on Cuba St.
Sunday, the day for the big "Toast Martinborough" festival had come. We bought these tickets forever ago. After a major mission to get a train ticket out to wine country, we were on our way with thousands of other eager people, waiting to eat, drink, dance, and hopefully not pass out in between grape vines. Let's see, here are the words to describe the day....shuttles, hot, port-a-loo's, expensive, dusty roads, lots of wine, good wine, white wine, red wine, tasty food, pairing food, eighties band, jazz band, Irish bands (yep, just for you Ryan), rock bands, girl bands, frozen grapes, shaded places, sitting on grass, eating under grape vines, 3 pm, dancing (what would John Kim do?), falling down, people passing out, drunk Kiwi's, train stations, bus stations, taxi drivers, bagpipe players, green wrist bands, yellow wrists bands, white wrist bands, drinking wine out of bottles on the train, hats on train tracks, finish with pizza and a beer, dead asleep.
Monday morning after saying good bye to our wonderful host, Willy, we're off eager for new sites and adventures waiting for us just a beautiful ferry ride away, across the Cook Straight on the South Island. They say that the South Island is far more beautiful with half the population and much more sheep. All we know is there are horses, kayaks, trails, glaciers, more wine, good people, and roads waiting.
Lots of love,
Leah and Jason
Monday, November 12, 2007
On to New Zealand
Hi All,
We're now in Wellington, New Zealand. We arrived last night and this morning we were off to a late start. It's raining pretty well and Wellington is living up to it's reputation for being "the windy city". Our run this morning was slow, up and down hills, and against the wind. The views from our home stay are gorgeous, as it is on top of a hill looking out over the water and the mountains in the distance. We can even see the South Island, which is not too far. Our host, who has lived here for 43 years from Europe, is extremely kind and knowledgeable. We'll keep you posted on what adventures we come across in the next week. Hopefully, the weather will pick up too. We have four weeks here in NZ and we're expecting to encounter all types of weather and environments. No rush, we have time on our side.
As for now, we'll fill you in on the rest of our time in Australia. Melbourne Cup day was quite a scene. By two in the afternoon, bars and pubs were filled with people having a very good time. It's like the country stops to celebrate and enjoy. The women dressed up in dresses, hats, and heels. Watching them walk down the streets in the rain was true entertainment. The hats were not like the big Kentucky Derby hats we know, rather they were headpieces made of feathers and fabrics pinned up on top of elaborate hair styles. They looked wonderful. Two days after Melbourne Cup day in Australia is "Ladies Day" and basically it's a day for ladies of all ages to go out together and celebrate being, well, a woman. How great is that.
The best highlight of the week was our day trip to Fraser Island. It is about an hour or so north of where we were and you can only get there by way of a ferry. We initially planned to hire (rent) and 4wd and drive the beaches and rain forests ourselves. We were talked out of it and glad for it. Due to cloudy weather and spats of rain, our private tour with a couple of other people was truly amazing. Our guide, Mark, was a crocodile and snake hunter and a true Aussie. He was fantastic; Steve Irwin style accent and lingo. We learned so much about the plant life, animal life, Aboriginal history, and culture of the island and it's surrounding Queensland. The day included a ride that went from bumpy terrain to the smooth track of fine and white sand. We experienced everything from champagne on the beach, to a swim in the bluest fresh water lake, hiking through a rain forest, to sitting on a ferry enjoying the views. Australians are serious about conservation and we loved hearing about the efforts and organization to do so. Finally, we lucked out on seeing native and natural animal life. We saw so many kangaroos grazing in open fields, we even got close enough to take some good photos. They are a trip, with their big back legs and little arms. So cute!! We also saw three Imus, which are the Australian version of Ostrich. They are shy creatures and usually hide away but Jason spotted some and when we stopped they hung out for a few minutes. We saw a deer, two dingos, which are like cotoyes (we heard the story of "the dingo ate my baby" for those who know that saying from Seinfeld), and a white bellied eagle. The only thing we didn't see was a Koala. We looked and looked....didn't happen.
Fraser Island is teeming and full of life. The drives down the huge white beaches, with fast speeds, and the surf pounding off the coast line next to us spoke of freedom, exhilaration, and fulfillment. We held hands and we were both thinking the same thing "this is what it's about." Hiking through dark, freshly rained on rain forests looking at ferns and trees that were thousands of years old retaught us the reverence we should all have for the earth. The vines and trees that climb, twist, and wrap around, up, and down the rain forest reminded us that nature is the best artist; moving elegantly while creating stunning shapes and lines. The light from the sun way above the tree tops drew lines across the forest providing a lighted stage for the play, sounds, smells, and colors of nature. Being in situations like this remind us that integrating ourselves into nature and the earth is not that far from us no matter where we live. Why then do we always forget it and not enjoy is at much as we can?
From mid week until we left Australia I had to teach four days in Marrochydore. The mornings were filled with jogs along the beach watching the surfers and fisherman. I remember people telling me that jogging is the best way to see a new place. This was of course before I began running, and now that I do, I agree there is no better way to explore little streets, find shops and restaurants, and see people living there lives. One morning we woke up early and drove to the Glass House Mountain range and went for an amazing morning hike. The hike, straight up, lead us to breathtaking 360 views of valleys, the ocean, farmland, far off city of Brisbane, and other peaks. At the top was an Aussie family that we enjoyed the views with as they told us about their life in the surrounding town. When they left us, we sat for a bit in a peaceful silence as we listened to the breeze rustle through trees below, far off cars on highways, and buzzing insects. It was at this point that we decided to make the best of a situation that happened the day before.
As I was teaching the day before, Jason was very excited to go for his first Australian surf. I sent him off knowing that he would enjoy the challenge and exhilaration of the activity that he loves so much but doesn't get to do a ton of. I came back to the apartment for lunch and Jason was there, waiting. I asked "How was it?", he looked up with big tears in his eyes. I asked "Did you suck, did you get hurt?" He held up his left hand, with fingers extended, and with no wedding ring; it slipped off into the Pacific ocean on his second wave. He was devastated and we both heartbroken. The sentimental value more important that any cost value. Feeling upset and stupid for not remembering to take it off, Jason apologized and I touched was by his concern and of course, not angry with him at all; just sad like he was. Back to the mountain top while being surrounded by the pure beauty and power of our hike and the reaping the benefits of our effort, we decided to buy Jason a new ring in New Zealand and on one of the next mountain tops we stand on together we will recite our vows. This new ring will represent, of course, our great trip but mostly importantly, our marriage and ability to work through and adapt to situations that happen, getting over the bumps in life, no matter how small or big, together.
Travel brings out the best and worst in people and relationships. So far we've laughed a ton, discussed the silly to the complex, argued over what to wear to driving directions, had fantastic romance to the mundane of real life. We've been frustrated, amused, in awe, confused, challenged, peaceful, excited and much more with our surroundings and with each other, but all these feelings our accompanied with love and being in love with one another and these new places we are discovering together.
There are many other little stories about dinners in Australia, my experience teaching there, and meeting and spending time with great people. The week in Australia left us wanting more and me with several big bug bites. It was so much more than we thought. Now, it's time to get to New Zealand. It's cold and were bundled up ready to go.
Lots of love and take care,
Leah and Jason
We're now in Wellington, New Zealand. We arrived last night and this morning we were off to a late start. It's raining pretty well and Wellington is living up to it's reputation for being "the windy city". Our run this morning was slow, up and down hills, and against the wind. The views from our home stay are gorgeous, as it is on top of a hill looking out over the water and the mountains in the distance. We can even see the South Island, which is not too far. Our host, who has lived here for 43 years from Europe, is extremely kind and knowledgeable. We'll keep you posted on what adventures we come across in the next week. Hopefully, the weather will pick up too. We have four weeks here in NZ and we're expecting to encounter all types of weather and environments. No rush, we have time on our side.
As for now, we'll fill you in on the rest of our time in Australia. Melbourne Cup day was quite a scene. By two in the afternoon, bars and pubs were filled with people having a very good time. It's like the country stops to celebrate and enjoy. The women dressed up in dresses, hats, and heels. Watching them walk down the streets in the rain was true entertainment. The hats were not like the big Kentucky Derby hats we know, rather they were headpieces made of feathers and fabrics pinned up on top of elaborate hair styles. They looked wonderful. Two days after Melbourne Cup day in Australia is "Ladies Day" and basically it's a day for ladies of all ages to go out together and celebrate being, well, a woman. How great is that.
The best highlight of the week was our day trip to Fraser Island. It is about an hour or so north of where we were and you can only get there by way of a ferry. We initially planned to hire (rent) and 4wd and drive the beaches and rain forests ourselves. We were talked out of it and glad for it. Due to cloudy weather and spats of rain, our private tour with a couple of other people was truly amazing. Our guide, Mark, was a crocodile and snake hunter and a true Aussie. He was fantastic; Steve Irwin style accent and lingo. We learned so much about the plant life, animal life, Aboriginal history, and culture of the island and it's surrounding Queensland. The day included a ride that went from bumpy terrain to the smooth track of fine and white sand. We experienced everything from champagne on the beach, to a swim in the bluest fresh water lake, hiking through a rain forest, to sitting on a ferry enjoying the views. Australians are serious about conservation and we loved hearing about the efforts and organization to do so. Finally, we lucked out on seeing native and natural animal life. We saw so many kangaroos grazing in open fields, we even got close enough to take some good photos. They are a trip, with their big back legs and little arms. So cute!! We also saw three Imus, which are the Australian version of Ostrich. They are shy creatures and usually hide away but Jason spotted some and when we stopped they hung out for a few minutes. We saw a deer, two dingos, which are like cotoyes (we heard the story of "the dingo ate my baby" for those who know that saying from Seinfeld), and a white bellied eagle. The only thing we didn't see was a Koala. We looked and looked....didn't happen.
Fraser Island is teeming and full of life. The drives down the huge white beaches, with fast speeds, and the surf pounding off the coast line next to us spoke of freedom, exhilaration, and fulfillment. We held hands and we were both thinking the same thing "this is what it's about." Hiking through dark, freshly rained on rain forests looking at ferns and trees that were thousands of years old retaught us the reverence we should all have for the earth. The vines and trees that climb, twist, and wrap around, up, and down the rain forest reminded us that nature is the best artist; moving elegantly while creating stunning shapes and lines. The light from the sun way above the tree tops drew lines across the forest providing a lighted stage for the play, sounds, smells, and colors of nature. Being in situations like this remind us that integrating ourselves into nature and the earth is not that far from us no matter where we live. Why then do we always forget it and not enjoy is at much as we can?
From mid week until we left Australia I had to teach four days in Marrochydore. The mornings were filled with jogs along the beach watching the surfers and fisherman. I remember people telling me that jogging is the best way to see a new place. This was of course before I began running, and now that I do, I agree there is no better way to explore little streets, find shops and restaurants, and see people living there lives. One morning we woke up early and drove to the Glass House Mountain range and went for an amazing morning hike. The hike, straight up, lead us to breathtaking 360 views of valleys, the ocean, farmland, far off city of Brisbane, and other peaks. At the top was an Aussie family that we enjoyed the views with as they told us about their life in the surrounding town. When they left us, we sat for a bit in a peaceful silence as we listened to the breeze rustle through trees below, far off cars on highways, and buzzing insects. It was at this point that we decided to make the best of a situation that happened the day before.
As I was teaching the day before, Jason was very excited to go for his first Australian surf. I sent him off knowing that he would enjoy the challenge and exhilaration of the activity that he loves so much but doesn't get to do a ton of. I came back to the apartment for lunch and Jason was there, waiting. I asked "How was it?", he looked up with big tears in his eyes. I asked "Did you suck, did you get hurt?" He held up his left hand, with fingers extended, and with no wedding ring; it slipped off into the Pacific ocean on his second wave. He was devastated and we both heartbroken. The sentimental value more important that any cost value. Feeling upset and stupid for not remembering to take it off, Jason apologized and I touched was by his concern and of course, not angry with him at all; just sad like he was. Back to the mountain top while being surrounded by the pure beauty and power of our hike and the reaping the benefits of our effort, we decided to buy Jason a new ring in New Zealand and on one of the next mountain tops we stand on together we will recite our vows. This new ring will represent, of course, our great trip but mostly importantly, our marriage and ability to work through and adapt to situations that happen, getting over the bumps in life, no matter how small or big, together.
Travel brings out the best and worst in people and relationships. So far we've laughed a ton, discussed the silly to the complex, argued over what to wear to driving directions, had fantastic romance to the mundane of real life. We've been frustrated, amused, in awe, confused, challenged, peaceful, excited and much more with our surroundings and with each other, but all these feelings our accompanied with love and being in love with one another and these new places we are discovering together.
There are many other little stories about dinners in Australia, my experience teaching there, and meeting and spending time with great people. The week in Australia left us wanting more and me with several big bug bites. It was so much more than we thought. Now, it's time to get to New Zealand. It's cold and were bundled up ready to go.
Lots of love and take care,
Leah and Jason
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